Chimmi Lhakhang
Chimmi Lhakhang or Chi Bum Lhakhang?
Ours is a land where folks believe that horses lay eggs and tigers fly. So anything is possible in a place like Bhutan. Me being me, I have always been cynical of such beliefs. I mean I listened when our Masters told us to seek logic instead of adhering to blind faith in the supposed magic. I will get to the logic bit later.
But despite all my cynicism, I have always had no objections against the philandering Master Drukpa Kuenley and his outrageous ways. Let me not stuff you with repeated information about his origins and his deeds which is mostly copy-pasted stuff…..trust me, they don’t pay much attention to the actual detail….basically they just know him for his holy roving phallus….but here’s where I had yet another thought….why do they ALWAYS keep referring to his Holy Dong as the ‘Thunderbolt of Wisdom?’ I mean it’s repeat stuff in it? And it’s become awfully bland…I say let’s pay the Holy Dong it’s due and come up with better references. The Rod of Redemption, Destroyer of Uranus, Lance of Singularity, Eggplant of Wisdom, are a few fresh references that come to mind but let’s not get distracted here.
He is the one religious saint that I totally and unequivocally agree with. His unconventional approach towards enlightenment involved EVERYTHING besides hunkering down with a mantra in a remote cave, as was and as remains the standard norm. Armed with his highly versatile phallus, he was hardly a paragon of virtue. It is said that he fornicated with the demonesses and ripped them apart with his enormous Holy Dong, which he possessed the magical prowess to enlarge at will. As much as I wouldn’t have enjoyed being a recipient of the renowned phallus, I do enjoy listening to and reading about his colorful exploits which usually come thick and fast, and often with a generous portion of ribaldry. He used his phallus upon anything that had a hole, sparing not even his own birth mother, but at least in her case he didn’t go through with the actual fornication process.
A certain western blogger was so impressed by the way our Drukpa Kuenley wielded his phallus against evil demons, nuns and old women alike that he has gone to the extent of declaring him ‘The Original Gangsta of Tantra,’ which I feel is quite apt. There are a couple of anecdotes that remain etched in popular psyche. But the one that I like the most is the bit where he prostrated towards a chunk of gold instead of the presiding lama during a public blessing, maintaining that had it not been for the gold, he wouldn’t have been fortunate enough to receive the lama’s blessing. Initially he hadn’t been allowed to even approach the lama as he had nothing to offer by way of ‘Wang Nyen’ (*basically an offering made as a gesture of gratitude for the blessings conferred*), which, by the way, was a default setting in him owing to his total disregard for any and all material wealth, as opposed to the other lamas who didn’t quite share his opinion.
Earlier on, I mentioned that our people don’t pay much attention to detail….that they are more than happy to take resort to copy-pasting information. Now let me make my point. The so called fertility temple at Lobesa, which is associated with him, has come to be known as ‘Chimmi Lhakhang’ Punakha and people have interpreted it as ‘Chi Med’ Lhakhang. They have offered two explanations. One – the ‘Temple of No Death,’ because Drukpa Kuenley was the only person who is said to have managed to run away from Death. Here the ‘Chi’ has been understood as an abbreviation of ‘Chiwa Mitakpa’ or ‘Death.’ This bit kinda makes sense as there hasn’t been a single reincarnation of Drukpa Kuenley till date. I mean, how can you be reincarnated if you haven’t died in the first place? Bit of a logic there.
The second and more popular explanation is the one where they interpret the ‘Chi’ bit as ‘Dog.’ The name translates as ‘No Dog Temple,’ in keeping with the very popular anecdote of how Drukpa Kuenley managed to subdue the demoness of Semtokha even after she transformed into a dog to get away from him. Now THIS is the bit that I have a problem with. I mean, even a very ordinary person can kill/subdue a single dog….it is not a very extraordinary feat.
Contrary to popular explanation, the name of the temple (*according to the locals who actually know*), is supposed to be ‘Chi Bum’ Lhakhang. Here again the ‘Chi’ is a reference to a dog, but the latter bit – ‘Bum,’ which means a ‘hundred thousand’ is the part that lends logic. The demoness is supposed to have manifested as a hundred thousand dogs, despite which, Drukpa Kuenley, through this superior spiritual accomplishments, managed to chain them all together and pin them underneath the black stupa outside the temple. Infact, THAT stupa is supposed to be the main element of sacred significance in the temple premises. By any stretch of the imagination, this bit makes much more sense doesn’t it? An ordinary person wouldn’t be able to kill/subdue that many dogs at one go would he? I know that ‘a rose by any name does smell just as sweet’ but in cases like these, people have to know…they have to be given proper perspective. Hence my efforts at seeking an alternative point of view.
In any case, Drukpa Kuenley’s ways of finding mirth in the mundane, his stabbing truths and his brutally honest wisdom about pretentiousness and lameness in the real world are known to have always entertained if not enlightened our folks. He knew a heck of a lot of ways of generating awareness and exposing pretentiousness (*which, let’s admit, we have a lot of these days*). All his ways were of the ‘in-your-face’ type to say the least. His memory is eternal. He lives in every phallus that is painted on our walls or carved into wood, protecting us from evil, dispelling ignorance and providing a source of income to whoever is fond of carving out the most ludicrous phalluses they can.
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Jenny Chua
In Nov 24, we had the privilege of exploring Bhutan with the guidance of an exceptional tour guide, Kinlay Dorji & Jigme Tshering from Bhutan Best Inbound Tour agency and I couldn’t be more impressed with the experience. From the moment we arrived, they ensured every detail of our trip was perfectly planned and executed, making it truly stress-free and enjoyable. Their deep knowledge of Bhutan’s history, culture, and traditions was remarkable, and they shared stories and insights that brought the country’s rich heritage to life. Whether we were visiting iconic landmarks like the Tiger’s Nest Monastery or strolling through serene villages, their passion for Bhutan was evident and contagious. What truly stood out was their dedication to providing personalized service. They were always attentive to our needs, ensuring we were comfortable, well-fed, and immersed in the beauty of Bhutan. Their warm hospitality, patience, and ability to adapt to our preferences made the journey unforgettable. If you’re planning a trip to Bhutan, I cannot recommend this tour guide enough. They truly go above and beyond to ensure you experience the heart and soul of the Land of the Thunder Dragon. An absolute five-star experience!
Reviewed on: 1/14/2025
Terri KimOur first time in Bhutan couldn’t have been as amazing & memorable as it was without the wonderful team behind Bhutan Best Inbound Tour who were with us every step of the way. We decided (very last minute) to go to Bhutan with only weeks to spare. I decided to go with Bhutan Best Inbound Tour based on online reviews, responsiveness (via WhatsApp), and reasonable pricing. Because our trip was short (5 days/4 nights) and we already rushed to book our flights/accommodations, we were mainly looking for a dedicated tour guide/driver to explore Thimphu, Punakha, and Paro. Deki, who planned our itinerary, was responsive and accommodating to all my inquiries and requests. She answered my questions, and put my mind at ease when it came to our visas. She was lovely to work with, and made us feel prepared before our trip. But what she couldn’t have prepared us for was how amazing Bhutan would be and how much we would love our trip. We arrived at Paro International Airport early in the morning, and were greeted outside with white scarves by our guide and our driver who were patiently waiting for us. Our guide, Phub, was fantastic. Not only was he like a walking encyclopedia about his country, the culture, and Buddhism, he was personable and so funny. He was also quite the photographer, capturing the best angles and even directing us on how to pose. Phub was also very flexible with our daily schedule, and accommodating to our requests, which we appreciated immensely. He also shared tips & tricks that only locals would be privy to, which made this trip much more intimate and fulfilling than if we decided to go without a tour guide. I HIGHLY recommend a tour guide if you are thinking of going to Bhutan for the first time. We had two drivers, both very humble and excellent drivers. I felt very safe in the car despite impatient drivers, the occasional cow and dog, and landslides. On our day trip to Punakha from Thimphu, a landslide extended our trip by an hour each way, but our driver was patient and made sure we were comfortable. The breathtaking views (and company) made the delays worth it. We were so fortunate to have such wonderful drivers who prioritized our safety. From the kindness of the people to the delicious food, from the beautiful weather to the rich culture, and of course, Tiger’s Nest (which left us breathless, both figuratively and literally), Bhutan is truly a special country that left us with so many beautiful memories. We plan to visit Bhutan again, and when we do, we can’t wait to work with Bhutan Best Inbound Tour for all our needs. If you’re looking for a tour guide, I highly recommend reaching out to Bhutan Best Inbound Tour for a seamless experience
Reviewed on: 12/24/2024
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Reviewed on: 9/30/2024
Charles VrtisEverything about my experience in Bhutan was outstanding from start to finish! It is very serene, stunningly beautiful, and its people are exceptionally kind and welcoming! Of course, had I not chosen the right tour operator, I might have left with different feelings. Fortunately, I selected Bhutan Best Inbound Tour. From the start, my experience with them was smooth and seamless. Deki, my contact in arranging the logistics, could not have been more responsive and helpful. She made everything so easy, including arranging for a visa. And, I cannot say enough good things about my guide and driver. They really made my experience in Bhutan so wonderfully memorable. I felt completely comfortable and safe with the driver, Jigme. Not only that, he always had a smile on his face. My guide, Tenzin (“Tax”] Loday was great. He was prompt, reliable, and very engaging. He is now my Bhutanese brother! His love for his country shows, and his clear and helpful explanations about its history and sites could not have been better. Thank you Bhutan Inbound Tour!
Reviewed on: 3/30/2024
Brian NYCHuge thanks to Bhutan Best Inbound Tours for an amazing experience in magical Bhutan! My guide Phub is a true expert who taught me so much about the history and culture of Bhutan, and he took perfect care of me each and every place we visited. Our driver Lobzang got us to all of our destinations safely and on time, and they made a great team, always keeping me smiling and in awe of the beauty of bucket list Bhutan. Everything was smooth from start to finish, the hotels were all excellent and comfortable, and I highly recommend Bhutan Inbound and my friends Phub and Lobzang to anyone planning a trip to stunning Bhutan!
Reviewed on: 10/14/2023
